23 June 2006
It is a wonder that the sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) is not more widely cultivated in American regions that will sustain it, as it is a resilent plant of rarely paralleled beauty and amazing utility.
But do not mistake this for a complaint. Unimaginative gardeners ease our pursuit of novelty by granting us great frontiers, and as long as the mass of them subscribe to insipid Martha Stewartism, they also make it very easy for us to seem like badass motherfuckers, which is the sole aim of horticulture.
I

Lotus seeds are roughly the size of an almond and tend to resemble petrified olives. They are sheathed by a dark outer shell, the surface of which is very similar to a jawbreaker in solidity and texture. This shell is impervious to water. In addition to this protective coat, the seed contains a preservative enzyme, which has been found to potentiate viability for centuries.
Germination requires that we breach the seed coat.

Many gardeners saw a channel into the seed coat, working down to the pale inner contents. It does not matter where one saws this channel provided that one does not drive too far into a vital part of the seed embryo. As a preference, I always saw a single end off with a sharp serrated knife. Some people use power tools, but this is ludicrous and unnecessary.

The image below (courtesy of the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew) depicts numerous cross sections that provide a good idea of just how much shell must be removed.
I try to tamper with as little of the tan bit as possible by cutting along the yellow indicators marked on the far left seed, though one may cut or chisel away any part of the dark brown shell. Simply bear in mind that the entire purpose of this operation is to allow moisture into the seed.

II

The seed must now soak in water sustained at a temperature of 77-80° F. Obviously this means that most gardeners without heating pads are practically confined to a summer germination attempt.

I suggest starting seeds in two liter soda bottles because they will capacitate a large number of seeds. Yet it would be equally possible and perhaps beneficial in some cases to start seeds in a shot glass or a whisky barrel. A general maxim for this plant is that it is very hard to botch the germination process. Possibilities abound.
III

Over the next two weeks a series of juvenile shoots should grow to the top of the starting vessel. Upon reaching the surface, these shoots usually unfurl into small floating pads. This marks a good time to transplant into a permanent container.
Prepare this vessel by adding roughly two inches of plant media. Heavy clay garden soil is ideal, but commercial aquatic mixes are readily available if you should so choose.

IV
The roots and meandering rhizomes of the lotus will completely colonize a container of this size (4 gallons) in about a year. After this period, it is advisable (but by no means necessary) to place the system of rhizomes in a larger container.
I have noticed that this is best done in winter, while the plant is dormant (not applicable in the tropics).
During the dormant period, one may drain the existing container. After pouring off the water, it should be easy to dislodge the plant by flipping its container. The rhizome system should flop out like a pancake.
Embed this ‘pancake’ in the new container’s media and place the vessel in full sun.

A year old plant after one month of active growth.